Eccellenze Calabresi

Da il Tritagonista Elvia Gregorace:

Con Termine Grosso si intende una località storica in provincia di Crotone, dentro la quale, un tempo, sorgeva un’azienda cerealicola e zootecnia di bovini da latte, pecore e cavalli. Oggi questo suolo sembra essere vocato al vino. Tante le generazioni che si sono succedute dall’incontro di due famiglie: Giglio e Verga. Attualmente ad avere in mano l’onerosa eredità sono Antonio e Patrizia che si auspicano di lasciare a Fabrizio e Maria Pia qualcosa che possa durare per sempre e li leghi ancora di più alle loro radici. Paulo Coelho sostiene : “L’individuo che non onora la propria terra, non onora se stesso”. Forse è proprio per questo che Antonio e Patrizia al termine dell’università hanno deciso di tornare al Sud. Una vocina sussurrava loro che bisognava creare, generare, non solo prole ma altro… I vigneti occupano una superficie discreta, il clima è caratterizzato da elevate escursioni termiche, il vento sempre presente. Gli acini sono selezionati singolarmente e solo i migliori giungono in cantina per dare  vita a eccellenti calici. Svariati i vini e tutti con sfumature differenti comunemente considerati armonici, equilibrati e schietti. Si parte dal gradevolissimo giallo tenue di Madama Giovanna 2015, nettissimo l’aroma di pera matura su uno sfondo di miele millefiori. Corrispondenza tra naso e bocca. Minerale, fresco e beverino. Per chi snobba in modo ingiusto i vini rosati, il Gaglioppo esprime la sua personalità in Luna Piena 2015 dal chiaretto brillante. Roteando il bicchiere gli archetti permangono, precursori di un profumo audace, nettissimo il sentore di lampone su uno scenario di spezie dolci come il coriandolo. Il sorso è appagante, paffuto il sapore, eccellente la morbidezza, probabilmente risultato anche della criomacerazione. Elegante, dai tannini vellutati, dal sentore di melagrana e liquirizia , rammenta subito la scatola di sigari Don Fabrizio 2014. Per essere compreso ci vuole tanta pazienza, proprio come la piccola Maria Pia, è a lei che si ispira il Giglio Nero 2014; rosso rubino intenso, necessita di tempo per lasciarsi andare, utilizzati solo acciaio e vetro, perché bisogna degustarlo senza alcun filtro: è così com’è; pepe nero, noce moscata sono lo scenario di amarene sotto spirito, finale leggermente amaricante. Chi, invece, è estroverso è Frisio: fragola, ribes e balsamicità invadono l’olfatto in modo entusiasmante; in bocca la carruba ha un immediato sopravvento, equilibrato e persistente. Complesso il naso di Gocce di Frisio 2014: l’unghia piaciona violacea attrae la vista, invita al sorso, essenze di chiodi di garofano, noce moscata, vaniglia si alternano. In bocca? Prugna matura e uva sultanina. Ancora più ampio è il Crete del Falco 2012 ( Gaglioppo 55%, Merlot 15%, Cabernet Sauvignon 15%, Cabernet Franc 15%). Rosso impenetrabile, emana sentori di vaniglia, cannella, curcuma, marmellata di fragole. In bocca è masticabile, voluttuoso, rammenta le ciliegie sotto spirito e sentore erbaceo di rabarbaro. Coniuge perfetto per piatti di carne elaborati. New entry della cantina è Donnanò 2015. Il nome prende spunto dalla madre di Antonio: Donna Eleonora, più nota come Nora. Femmina discreta, ma di polso, ha seguito la famiglia mai in modo invadente. Lo Zibibbo è il protagonista. Colore vivo, pepe bianco, margherite, vaniglia e miele stuzzicano l’olfatto. Appagante per le papille , di buona acidità, beverino, ricorda la pesca gialla. Particolarità? L’affinamento avviene in barrique di acacia e soprattutto primo vino in anfora della regione.

L’enologo? Giuseppe Liotti, uno dei pochi conoscitori della regione. Occupa la sua professione con serietà e passione. “Incontri migliaia di persone, le tocchi e non accade niente. Poi ne incontri una che nemmeno sfiori e la tua vita cambia. Per sempre”. Forse è proprio da un incontro che Antonio, Patrizia e Giuseppe hanno deciso di trasformare un piccolo sogno in tanti calici passionali e diversi…

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